Saturday, November 30, 2013
The Best Kind of Garden is the Beer Kind - Day Six
Our last full day in Salzburg, and, finally, a good night's sleep. We started out with a coffee near our hotel at Afro Cafe, a kitschy coffee shop. We ate outside under the awning.
The decor was cute, close attention to details were paid. There were afros.
The table cloths were adorned with bikini clad women and dice. Hubs had a latte and waffles. Cutest waffles ever.
I had an espresso and a croissant with nutella. The croissant was heartier and less flakier than typical, which I enjoyed.
2 coffees + waffles + croissant + tip = 15 euro. Not cheap, but it was a fun atmosphere.
We crossed the street and walked down Getreidegasse to the building where Mozart was born and lived his early life.
The house was the entire third floor and would have seemed quite spacious if not for the low ceilings. Now the space is occupied by the Mozart Museum, which was definitely worth the admission price of 10 euro. Initially, I'd had no interest in going there, but I ended up thoroughly enjoying it.
Some interesting things I learned: Mozart's sister was an extremely gifted pianist, and her talents may have rivaled his if she'd been given the same opportunities as he. Mozart's mother was a funny lady who always managed to inject her sense of humor into her letters. Mozart was never poor, he was just terrible with money.
After the museum, we walked to the Mirabell Palace and Gardens.
Before taking time to browse, we walked across the street to the farmer's market. It's only on Thursday and ends at 1pm sharp. We only had time to do a quick lap before the stands were being packed away. It was just enough time to buy two legs and thighs from the fried chicken stand. You'll know it's the right stand because there's a long line, but it moves quickly. And it's worth it. Delicious chicken, perfectly fried with the meat still juicy.
We sat on the church steps next to the stand an enjoyed our lunch looking at the Mirabell Palace. Not too shabby. 5 euro for two servings of chicken.
We walked back over to Mirabell and took a stroll through Dwarf Garden. This place was really neat.
Prince Archbishop Franz Anton Harrach had statues modeled after the dwarves in the court in 1715. The statues were so cool because while the details were realistic, there was an exaggerated element of cartoon in them, too.
Each dwarf had a clear personality and looked like he/she could pop to life at any moment. They all looked like people I would have liked to know.
My favorite was a man wearing a large hat and a half smile. I thought he looked like a poet or writer.
After Dwarf Garden, we walked back through the Mirabell Gardens. They were pretty, the spring flowers in bloom. Even though the sky was overcast, the temperature was warm. If you're a big fan of THE SOUND OF MUSIC, this is the place for you. Tourist groups kept weaving around the gardens and fountains, some of the groups were even singing.
After being serenaded, we walked up to St. Sebastian's cemetery where Mozart's wife and parents are buried. Another pretty cemetery with wrought iron crosses and beds for flowers, though not as many flowers were at this one.
From the cemetery, we walked back over to Salzburger Dom where the concert scaffolding had finally been put away. We passed a line of boredom-stricken carriage horses along the way.
The sun finally came out and shined down on us as we sat on a bench in the square.
The last thing we really wanted to do in Salzburg was go to the Augustiner Braust Ubl Mullner Brau, which is really just a long title for the local Beer Garden. Appropriately, this beer garden served Augustiner's Salzburg brew, a delicious wheat beer.
You go to the cashier, pay for your ticket, grab a mug off the shelf, wash it in the fountain, then hand it to the man on beer duty to fill you up from the keg. Then you walk outside to the garden area and find a great spot under a shady tree.
They serve food, but research told us it was expensive, so we brought our own picnic: a #3 hot dog from the Balkan Grill with mustard and curry.
Two fish cake sandwiches from Fisch Kreig at the fish market. It's what a McFish should taste like.
2 fish sandwiches = 5 euro. Hot dog = 3.50 euro.
The beer was especially good, considering the mass quantities they were pumping out. We went in the late afternoon, the sun still out and it was warm and lively. Good people watching. The food we brought was the perfect last meal to have in Salzburg. If we would've had another day, I wanted to come back, the setting was that much fun. 4 x .5 liter beers = 12 euro.
We walked back to the Old Town along the river. The sun finally came out without disappearing. Salzburg is a beautiful city and I'm grateful we had such pleasant weather during our time there.
Made our way back to Steingasse and found the marking on the door and stringed doorbells. Much easier in daylight. Plus there was a lot of cool graffiti that I missed during our night visit. Definitely make a trip there in the day.
We wanted something sweet to end the day, so we decided to try Salzburg's famous Nockerl. We stopped at a restaurant named S. Nockerl, so we thought we were in the right place.
It seemed to me that nickel was a back of defrosted frozen raspberries heated with sugar and topped with a soft meringue. It was fine, but nothing I would need to have again.
Note: that spoon is not to scale. It was a GIANT spoon, so this dessert was BIG. I also ordered an Austian cheesecake slice, which seemed like it had ricotta and a lot of egg in it.
Again, good, but I'd never need another slice. But it didn't matter. We were full of good beer and beautiful gardens of all sorts.
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