Naples



Piazza del Pebliscito


Naples was the surprise of the trip for me.  It has a reputation for being crime-ridden and dangerous.  And lately, with all the garbage collection strikes, really, really dirty.  When we were there it was not scary or barricaded with garbage bags.  We walked around at night at what we found out later was a "bad" neighborhood.  I felt as safe and secure as I do walking in my own neighborhood.  I think Naples has an unfair stigma because it isn't as pristine as the rest of tourist-packed Italy.  Since Naples doesn't have as many tourists, it doesn't have the revenue to keep all the graffiti away.  But I loved the city.  It felt more urban and diverse than anywhere else we went.  Dare I say it reminded me of Barcelona (although it's been over ten years since I've been to Barcelona, so maybe I would feel differently now).  Just be careful you don't get taken out by a motorbike.

Street View from the National Archaeological Museum

Where We Stayed: Piazza Bellini.  This hotel was fantastic.  It felt brand new, with modern decor.  The ceilings were high.  The bathroom was great.  The continental breakfast was almost as good as the one in Florence.  Free internet access.  Everything was great.

Things to Do:

National Archaeological Museum:  This museum houses many of the works of art discovered at neighboring Pompeii.  We went to the museum before we went to Pompeii, because that's what our schedule allowed.  I don't know if it might be better to go to Pompeii first because then you would have a reference point for the art.  Either way, definitely visit the museum.  It has an amazing gladiator exhibit.  And just like your favorite soon-to-be-out-of-business video store, it has an over 18 room where all the "erotic" artwork" is.  Kinky.

Via Toledo:  This is the main shopping street in Naples.  Definitely worth walking down just to see the sights.  The road goes all the way to the sea.

Side Street off of Via Toledo

Piazza del Pebliscito:  This is where Via de Toledo meets the sea.  There was an amazing art exhibit going on while were were there.  This was my favorite second favorite Piazza in all of Italy.

Art Exhibit at Piazza del Plebescito

Places to Eat:

Naples is home of pizza, and they aren't joking.  We went to a couple pizza places.  The first one was Trianon di Ciro.  The New York Times named this the best pizza in Naples, and I would have to disagree.  It was good, don't get me wrong.  But the best?  Nah.  I'm from Chicago.  I know good pizza.  I had the Pizza Forte with ham, mushrooms, and sauce.  No cheese, which I didn't notice when ordering.  My bad, because I like cheese on my pizza.  Hubs had the 8 Flavors pizza, which was better than mine.  The pizza was good, but we weren't dying to go back.  Two Pizzas + Wine for 2 = 23 Euros.

Pizzeria di Matteo:  The best pizza in Naples!  This pizza was great.  I had the Capricciosa with ham, mushrooms, and artichokes.  The sauce was bright with fresh tomatoes.  Hubs had the Bufelo, just mozzerella and cheese.  He learned the pizza lesson quicker than I.  With a good thin crust pizza with a great sauce, you don't need toppings.  Cheese + 1 should be the maximum.  2 Pizzas = 13.50 Euros.

My Capricciosa Pizza at Pizzeria di Matteo

Ristorante 53:  This place off of Piazza del Dante.  We were famished after the museum and strolling down Via del Toledo so we ducked in here.  Lucky find.  I had rigatoni with seafood and Hubs had penne with tomato sauce.  Pasta + Wine for 2 = 20 Euros.

Pintauro:  Naples' oldest bakery.  We tried the sfogliatella, a Neopolitan specialty.  So, so good.  I tried sfogliatella again in NYC at Di Ferrara, the only other place I've ever seen it.  Sorry New York, Pintauro's was better.

Sflogliatella from Pintauro