We spent the day wandering through Montmartre, home of Amelie Poulain, my favorite movie heroine. It's the perfect setting for a film: cobblestone streets, beautiful architecture, quiet neighborhood feeling. First we found the corner where the market had been. It was still a market, but wasn't open. Someone was painting it green.
Lunch was one of the best meals our whole trip at Un Zebre a Montmartre, 38 rue Lepic. We shared the first of many chicken liver pates I had on the trip. I became a pate addict. It was a serious problem. I found French pates to be much less livery than they are here in the U.S., which was to my liking, and even more to Hubs' liking.
I had the best braised beef I've ever had, covered with carmelized onions, green beens, and potato gratin.
Hubs had duck breast with green beans and roast potatoes.
Huge portions, great cozy atmosphere. Pate + 2 Main Courses = 30 Euros.
Stuffed, we wandered down to the Lapin Agile. I went and saw Steve Martin's Picasso at the Lapin Agile in high school, never dreaming I'd ever see the real place. I had forgotten about the play, which is very smart and funny, and it's always great when those memories come rushing back.
This anecdote is going to age me, but I remember going to the Briar Street Theatre in Chicago to see LATPA. Soon after, I went back to the theatre to see this weird, new show called Blue Man Group. A bunch of dudes covered in blue, playing instruments and making a huge mess. Okay, that show was great, too. On the way out of the theatre, I remember seeing the "Coming Soon" poster for the next show. I don't remember what it was, but it was clearly a play that was in rehearsals with a full cast. When I moved to LA almost a decade later, Blue Man Group was still playing at the Briar Street Theatre. That play on the poster never happened, at least not at the Briar Street. I hope they were able to move somewhere else, but who would've ever guessed that a bunch of guys and some blue paint would be such a phenomenon?
I sat next to the Lapin Agile and watches a group of people throw tennis balls up the street for their dogs to catch.
We walked up to Sacre Couer, the highest point in the city. The cathedral is striking and reminded me of a white mosque with its voluptuous white spires. Nothing special on the inside, but the grounds were packed with visitors sprawled out on the grass all the way down the hill. Great people watching.
Back down the hill for more Amelie fan club. We arrived at the Two Windmills, the cafe where Amelie worked, which is actually called Cafe Deux Moulins. Working in TV, I always expect everything to be renamed and redressed, but the Two Windmills was pretty much like the film, although movies always have better lighting and color correction.
The Two Windmills was an experience of mistaken orders. I ordered a "Limonade" expecting a lemonade and got a Sprite. I'm not a fan of white pop. Yes, I am from the Midwest. Hubs ordered a "Frappe de Vanil", thought he was getting a vanilla milkshake and ended up getting a vanilla iced coffee which was delicious. He definitely made the better error.
From there we strolled to the Moulin Rouge and then to a nearby chocolate shop, A l'Etoile d'Or, 30 rue Fontaine. Beautiful candies in the most picturesque little shop. We bought a few chocolates to share and they were all delicious.
We snacked on our chocolates while walking down Pigalle past all the sex shops. I was amused because this section of town feels so upscale, like walking down a Michigan Ave. filled with block after block of erotica. Actually, it kind of felt like a clean, richer version of Hollywood Blvd.
Hiked back up to Sacre Couer for the golden hour. Kids were jumping rope. The carousel lights turned on. Pigeons were mating at our feet. Ah, Montmartre, I miss you.
On the way back to the subway, we stopped at a charcuterie shop we'd passed during our earlier wandering and bought two croque monsieurs to go. We bought a bottle of wine near our apartment and ate at home. The perfect end to a beautiful spring day.
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